melting your mouth

Tarts are a special dessert to me. In my Mom’s family, we always had Chess Tarts, usually made by my grandmother Meme, at special gatherings like Thanksgiving and Christmas. Before she moved into a retirement home, Meme taught me to make her tarts and gave me many of her tart pans so that I could make them on my own. So anytime I get to pull out her tart pans is special but I don’t think I’ve ever used them to make anything but Meme’s chess tarts, using her recipe for the pastry and the filling.

But, inspired by a recent post from Feeding My Enthusiasms for what Elle calls St George’s Chocolate and Qunice Jam Tarts, I decided to branch out. These tarts consist of pastry topped with jam (she used quince, I made some with apricot and some with orange marmalade) which is then topped with a filling made of dark chocolate and ground almonds. They are apparently reminiscent of English Bakewell tarts, though those usually don’t have chocolate in them. I made my own pastry instead of using ready made pie dough. I also used a new recipe for pastry, which I altered from a recipe my friend Stirling found at Cook’s Illustrated. It uses vodka to replace some of the water, which makes the pastry easier to work with but doesn’t make the pastry tough. The vodka evaporates while it bakes, and it apparently doesn’t react with the gluten in the flour the way water does to make it tough.

The tarts turned out pretty well. The new pastry was buttery and flaky, though a little less brown than my usual pastry, and the chocolate filling was rich but nicely complemented by the fruit in the jam. The apricot and orange were both good, but Matt and I both like the orange ones better. I didn’t really think the almonds added all that much though. I felt like they just made the filling heavier without adding much flavor. I think next time I would try using hazelnuts instead, which I think might go better with the chocolate anyway. But overall, it’s a recipe I would recommend. If you want to try the filling, click here for Elle’s recipe. My modified pastry recipe follows.

Sweet Pastry

3 c flour, sifted
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 c butter (1 stick), cut into slices
1/2 c shortening
1/4 c ice water
1/4 c vodka

Measure out sifted flour. Sift dry ingredients. Cut in butter and sugar. Add ice water and vodka, and mash together until just blended. If the dough won’t stick together, add a little more vodka. Pull off a small piece of dough and roll out to fit in tart pan. Place the dough in the pan, and use the palm of one hand to cut off the extra dough from around the pan. Reuse the extra dough scraps for the next tart. This makes enough pastry for a couple dozen tarts or two pies.

I apologize that the posts have been so sparse lately. I’ve just returned from a trip to Long Beach for a meeting, and preparing for that has also been keeping me pretty busy for the past month or so. I’ve had less time to cook than usual, and even less time to blog about it. But, the good news is that things have calmed down at least a tad, and so more tasty treats from my kitchen should be appearing here in the near future.

Today, something simple: another recipe recommendation, this time from Simply Recipes. Lately, when I’m faced with persistent questions of “What’s for dinner?” or “I wonder how to make (XYZ)?” Elise’s Simply Recipes blog has become my go-to source. And she seldom lets me down. Her recipes are, as you might assume, reasonably simple, and her instructions are very clear. This recipe for pan-seared salmon with a sauce made from avocados was no exception. I don’t think I ever would have thought of combining avocados and salmon, but since both Matt and I love both of those foods, as soon as I saw the recipe Ik new I had to try it. The creamy avocado matched very nicely with the flavor of the salmon. And it’s just so pretty, too.

I was amazed how smooth the avocado remoulade got — after food processing the avocado it was a bit coarse, but as soon as you add the olive oil it becomes silky smooth.

My only complaint about this recipe is the recommended cooking time — my salmon wasn’t nearly done in the middle after the 3-4 minutes per side she recommends (and I like my meat and fish on the rare side), so next time I’ll use slightly lower heat so I can get it done all the way through without having the outside be too crispy. And yes, I’ll definitely be making this again.

You can find the recipe here: Pan-Seared Salmon with Avocado Remoulade

I’ve decided to add a new category — recipes I’ve found somewhere, have made pretty much as described, and recommend to you! The first is the Gingerbread Pancakes I made last weekend from Tea and Cookies, who in turn apparently adapted them from a restaurant called La Note. Anyway, they were absolutely delicious, and, even better, I already had all the ingredients on hand.

They make a pretty thick, gingerbread-spiced batter, but the pancakes aren’t too heavy. I sometimes have trouble with thick pancakes cooking unevenly, but these were done all the way through and had a texture I very much enjoyed. I’m not a huge fan of plain pancakes, so these were a nice departure from the usual. I served them with a lemon curd and pears as Tea suggested on her post (curd from this recipe from Joy of Baking). The lemon flavor added a nice zing to the spice of the pancakes, and pears went very nicely as well. Overall, a very tasty and comforting breakfast for a chilly and damp January morning.

As you can see, we could hardly stand to finish them off!

Other ideas:

• I often like chunks of things in my pancakes, especially in thick ones like these. I think chopping up fresh pears would make a nice addition, or maybe some chopped walnuts or pecans.
• Orange would also go nicely with the gingerbread flavor I believe. I thought about making the curd with orange juice instead of lemon; I might try that next time. Also, a little orange zest in the pancake batter might be good.
• Tea suggested poaching or roasting the pears. I think this would be very tasty, although I didn’t bother with it.
• Leftover lemon curd (that recipe will probably make more than you need) is also delicious on shortbread, biscuits, or in scones (try these from Heidi at 101 cookbooks). I’ve also been eating the lemon curd on vanilla ice cream with some toasted hazelnuts.